O A X A C A
>> the downtown guide<<
Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar // @jungleoaxaca // Photo :: @victorfotomx
Oaxaca is one of those places you hear about wherever you go in Mexico because everything astounding comes from here.
Home to the most beautiful art, textiles, ceramics, food - Oaxaca is incredibly rich in culture and charm.
For me, it’s the people who continuously steal my heart away and call me back time and time again.
A visit here is a trip worth taking and setting yourself up well before you go will make all the difference.
Here is a guide focused on the downtown area - of where you must go, what you must do, and of course - where you should absolutely eat.
WHERE TO EAT
Adama - a relaxed, family-style Mediterranean restaurant with lighter faire and fantastic hummus, taboli, kebabs, babaganoush, felafel.
Boulenc - a very popular bakery with delicious brunch options. Make sure to get there early to beat the line! The Shakshuka is incredible.
Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante - This is one of my favorite Restaurants in all of Oaxaca. The food is incredible, the mezcal sours are on point and I would eat the pumpkin flowers stuffed with cottage cheese every day if I could. Also - the rooftop view of Santo Domingo is the closest in town.
Criollo - Aesthetically stunning with a spectacular tasting menu - this restaurant checks all of the “special experience” boxes. The food is creative and excellently matched with drink pairings. Be sure to make a reservation.
El Destilado - Love everything about this place. It is authentically gritty, in an elegant way. Highly recommend the tacos + cocktails.
Restaurante Alfonsina - Such a special hidden gem worth seeking out and leaving the downtown for. Located in the small village of San Juan Batista La Raya, this restaurant is in the family home of famous chef, Jorge León. From the outside, you would never know that one of the best kept culinary secrets is just inside. León and his mother Elvia create the menus - mixing traditional and modern techniques for an entirely unique experience. In the word’s of the chef himself, “There isn’t just one word to define Alfonsina. It is not only a restaurant or a hotel. It is an experience. Alfonsina is home.”
WHERE TO DRINK
Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar - Very classy + hip. With sofa seating, low tables and dim lighting, the vibe is casual and elegant. The bartenders + servers are masters at finding just the drink for your tastes. The jungle themed walls make you feel like you are in another world entirely.
Zapotec Mixology Bar - A cozy bar with great drinks and fantastic live music.
Mezcalillera - Great spot to taste a wide variety of mezcal. It’s a small space with a little bar which makes the experience very intimate and fun.
Puro Burro - A very special rooftop bar with an incredible mezcal experience. Absolutely not to be missed.
WHERE TO COFFEE
Marito & Moglie Cafe - It took us awhile to find good coffee and we were beyond elated when we found this spot! Owned by an Italian, the coffee is on par with Italy’s finest. I love the feel here - artsy and minimal. The food is delicious and hits all of the coffee shop spots.
Filemon - Small cafe with rooftop seating and a delicious chicken sandwich.
WHERE TO STAY
Grana BNB - Photos of the Master Suite’s large red concrete bathtub drew me in and I am so glad they did. This BNB is oozing with textural charm. The shared kitchen is what kitchen dreams are made out of and lounging in their courtyard hammocks is the best way to take a break in the midst of exploring. In the words of Grana, “Set in an 18th century mansion renovated and decorated with our special touch, Grana is our love declaration to Oaxaca, to the South, to daydreamers, and to wandering poets who've decided to turn their lifestyle into art.”
Boulenc BED AND BREAD - Just above the restaurant and bar, these adults-only accommodations are stylish, comfortable, and perfectly located for a stay downtown.
WHERE TO VISIT
Mercado de Artesanias de Santa Maria Atzompa - This market is 30 minutes outside of downtown and home to the work of over 100 contemporary Atzompa potters. It is located in a great area to check out the surrounding roadside vendors with Atzompa’s traditional green glaze.
San Pablo Mitla - An hour from downtown Oaxaca, this magical little town has an incredible crafts market featuring handcrafted textiles and is home to the Mitla archeological ruins. The name “San Pablo” showcases the town’s colonial influence, meaning “Saint Paul”. “Mitla” is derived from the Nahuatl name “Mictlán”, meaning “land of the dead”. Take a day (or few) to explore this area and stay at Casa Lyobaa. You will be very glad you did.
Teotitlan del Valle - Famous for weaving wares and natural dyes, this is the place you want to go to find any rugs or tapestries for your home. The small market changes vendors every two weeks, giving many artisans from neighboring areas a chance to participate.
WHAT TO SEE
Monte Albán - Inhabited for over 1,500 years as one of the earliest Mesoamerican cities, Monte Albán was an important socio-political and economic center, home to the Olmecs, Zapotecs and Mixtecs. The city was abandoned before the writing of the earliest available ethnohistorical sources, leaving it’s ancient Zapotec name unknown. This city was built out of structures carved from the mountain on which it sits - remaining today as a symbol of sacred topography.
WHAT TO DO
Explore with Coyote Aventuras - This adventure company specializes in tailer-made everything from hiking, mountain biking, city biking, climbing, art, culture, wellness, healing, and multi-day expeditions. Whatever your deepest Oaxacan adventure desires, they’ve got you covered.
Massages at Nativo Spa Oaxaca - We went to this spa almost everyday that we stayed downtown. They offer energy clearing, cupping, and multiple massage techniques to sooth out the travel kinks and get you feeling your absolute best in mind / body / spirit.
Ceremony with Oaxaca Ancestral - One of the most special aspects of Oaxaca is the ability to connect with tradition and ancient wisdom, passed down from generation to generation. It is a true honor and privilege to participate in their traditional ceremonies and experience first hand the techniques that have been used for thousands of years. Oaxaca Ancestral curates very special Prehispanic Ancestral Spiritual Experiences from Ancestral Weddings to Temazcal, Ceremonies, and Healing Tours. Connect with Nancy and her amazing daughter to find just what you are looking for.
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